CHASSIS

Place the chassis on good stands. making sure that there is space for the bodywork 'lip' to go under the car by about 10-20cms. (my stands were very close to the edge so i had to lift the car while someone else shifted the jacks inwards!)
NOTE - make sure the'res room at the back of the car that you can get the full bodywork in!!!!. The bodywork has to go on from the back, so dont set the chassis up so that the rear is towards a nearby wall or obstruction. I am building mine so that the garage door is at the back so when the time comes I can just open the door and walk it in.

BULKHEAD PANELS

Do this before attempting to fit brake pipes as you wont be able to get the driver side panel in with the pipe in the way.
Using bits of cardboard cut to size, I began cutting notches out so they could fit inbetween the chassis bars. Using cardboard is much easier as you can 'repair' oversized notches with tape!. Make sure not to bend the carboard to get it to fit, as you wont be able to do the same with the metal sheet. A couple of the notches will need extended, notably the 2 upper ones on the driver side panel as the panel goes in bottom first, then needs rotated into place past the upper chassis bars that are angled inwards. The 2 inner tunnel panels need to be 'posted' in from above, which means taking about half an inch off so you can get them in diagonally from the top, then rotated into place. I do not have a 90 degree air drill or rivetter so I cut all panels to fit, and then took them all off to mark and drill the holes while there was nothing in the way. Some holes were harder to get to that others and are drilled at a bit of an angle, but when the rivet gets set it lies flat so looks fine. once all holes were drilled, I ran black sealant around the chassis, pressed the panel into place, and put the 4 corner rivets in place to hold the panel in place so the inbetween holes still lined up. After that, the rest of the rivets were done.
You can drill the brake master cylinder holes when the panel is in place, or before its fitted like I did.. but theres more room for error the way I did it so probably best to drill through the pedal box holes. Thankfully I drilled mine bang on!

PEDAL BOX

Place the clutch and Brake pedals in the pedal box, inserting the large bars through the holes and through the pedals. Use washers to fill up any large gaps but leave a gap of about 4mm on both bars between the clutch and brake. using a pen or scribe, mark the bars inbetween this gap. remove the bars and drill a hole big enough to get the pin through. reassemble as before, and push the single pin through the 2 holes in the bars to keep both in place. bend the feet of the pin out to stop the pin coming loose.

I then fit the master cylinders through the holes, screwing the threaded part onto the 2 ends of the brake bias bar.

Still to fit:
-Clutch Cable
-Throttle pedal
-Throttle Cable

BRAKE PIPES
Brake pipes are currently cable tied...

FUEL PIPES
Fuel pipes are currently cable tied...

LOOM

DIFFERENTIAL

IMPORTANT; Before the Diff is fitted, lie the propshaft in the transmission tunnel as theres little chance of getting it in when the diff is fitted!.
The Diff is a very tricky fit. The rear mounting bit needs sawn off to be able to rotate the diff into place. (it goes in from below, nose first). However BE CAREFUL removing the rear mount as its partly hollow so you could end up just creating a hole. I decided to avoid this potential damage and removed the entire back plate of the diff, then replaced it once it was in place.
Once it was off I took some measurements that might help if you decide to take a saw to yours. CLICK HERE
The diff needs spaced with washers so that it is central to the transmission tunnel. I found that if mine was dead center, the nearside of the diff case fouled on the chassis mounting bracket quite badly and meant that there was no way the lower mount holes would line up, so I spaced it away with one 2mm washer. It still fouled but was very close to lining up so the mount was notched a tiny bit.

INTERIOR PANELS

Notch the rear panel around the corners and where the floor corner pieces are. This took me a lot of trial and error until it lay right, as it needed lots of filing around the tunnel bars to fit, and also around the odd differential shape.
I clamped the side panels to the outside of the chassis, making sure the bottom edge didnt protrude past the bottom of the chassis bars, and that the rear edge was flat to where the back panel would lie. Using a marker I drew around the parts of chassis that would need to be notched around to get it to fit on the inside.

Still to do:
- I havent fixed the panels in place yet as I was just cutting them to fit before it got more awkward!

BODYWORK

NOTE: The side/rear bodywork needs to be fitted very early in the build now. After the fuel tank is in, and before you start to put any suspension on, otherwise you'll need to take it all off again to get the body in place!

Well it looks nice in the dining room but im not sure how long the missus will allow it to be there ;-)

July >